Agradecido

My husband and I love to spend our Thanksgiving holiday traveling to a new place, exploring a new culture, and meeting new people. These trips make us even more thankful for lives that allow us these memorable opportunities. This year our destination was one that has been on my radar for a very long time... Cuba. This was truly the trip of a lifetime.  We opted not to go the group travel route, but instead planned all of it our own -- with a bit of help from Airbnb. As such, we had an amazing, immersive experience that allowed us to understand Cuban culture, history and people in an authentic way.

I was lucky enough to locate a pretty fantastic private home on Airbnb, the Havana Green Home, with our host, Elida.  This was by far my best Airbnb experience yet.  Elida was a helpful and supportive host who helped us with everything from a driver, breakfast and even a Cuban phone. The 2 bedroom home with a sprawling rooftop deck was a phenomenal find!  We really enjoyed starting each day by talking with Elida (who lives across the street) about our experiences from the previous day and planning what was in store for the hours ahead. we discussed food, culture, politics, current events, her background, etc. She could not have been more kind and welcoming. We left feeling like we had made a lifelong friend in Cuba. We even had the opportunity to meet some of her neighbors, who were also very helpful.  But that's a story for a future post. :) 

We of course did the touristy things like riding in a vintage car and walking ALL over Old Habana, but we also took some opportunities to experience some "day in the life" type activities.  We went to a baseball game between the home team Industriales and Granma.  The tickets were just 1 peso and we had a wild time!  The crowds were incredible - it was like being at the World Cup!  They were constantly shouting and playing all sorts of musical instruments to show their appreciation for their teams. Their enthusiasm was infectious!  We ate some interesting ball park food, including a simple doughy pizza and churros. 

On the other end of the spectrum, we also went to the ballet one night and saw 3 amazing performances, two classical and 1 modern.  The Gran Teatro, which is right beside the capitol building, is a magnificent and opulent beauty.  This too is quite an affordable outing for the locals, a bit less so for the tourists, but still well worth the experience to see Alicia Alonso's work. Our seats were close to center stage and we just soaked it all in.  The choreography, the costumes, the theater and our fellow guests. A memory I will have for a lifetime... 

As we were there for a week, we not only had a chance to see a lot of Habana, but also some of the outlying areas.  We made a stop in Cojimar, the tiny fishing village where Hemingway placed "The Old Man and the Sea" -- and also went to Hemingway's home, Finca Vigia.  Both were gorgeous slices of life, although quite different.  The people of Cojimar so loved Papa that they melted down their metals from fish hooks, anchors, and such to provide materials for a bust to be created and erected in his honor in their town square.  We also took a long road trip out to the Bay of Pigs where the signs proclaiming the Cuban victory are large and plentiful and the visibility in the water is astounding.  We of course enjoyed our time in the water -the sea and the dream-like lagoon, but also the long trip into the countryside.  We saw the more remote and agrarian areas of the country, saw people hailing rides, and people selling produce roadside.  Our travel companions took advantage of this and purchased what seemed like a 50 lb bag of green oranges and threw them in to the truck.  They gave us a handful to eat in the back of the car (cut open with a dive knife of course!) and they were DELICIOUS!  

While each of these sights were fantastic, the memories that I will truly carry with me are those of the people we met: Elida, Miguel, Yanni, Redelio, Miguel, Josue, Raquel, Amed, Marian, Ana, Felix, and those whose names we don't know.  Each of these people showed us their Cuba.  The Cuba we discovered through their eyes was beautiful, bountiful, generous, communal and proud.  It was a different Cuba than the one I expected, but one I can't wait to go back to immerse myself in again. This trip moved me in a meaningful way.  I didn't just see their country through new eyes, but my own country as well. I can't possibly cover Cuba in just one post, so I will be writing more about this trip in the coming months. 





 

Wright in My Own Backyard

Or close by anyway… I am a big fan of mid-century modern architecture. So, when we moved to the mid-Atlantic area, I was delighted to learn that Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Falling Water was only a short drive away! Falling Water is one of Wright’s most famous architectural wonders.  It was even nominated as a possible 8^th wonder of the world.  It has been designated as a National Historic Landmark and is often listed as one of the places you should visit before you die. So, if it’s as close to you as it is to me –  go visit this transcendent landmark. 

It’s a very popular attraction, so it’s recommended that you buy your tickets well in advance.  We went in May a couple of years ago – which was just a perfect time to go.  The temperature was moderate, and as the house is tucked in the woods, it was surrounded by lush greenery making for beautiful pictures and hikes. 

I struggled with whether to write a post on this topic as it’s hard to put into words how sublime this experience was. I’m not sure I can do its beauty justice. It is like walking through a work of art – a masterpiece. Falling Water is like nothing else.  It is innovative and awe-inspiring. It is at both times magnificent and humble. It is a rush, and it is meditative.  It is a place of contradictions. 

Our guide was well-informed, and we learned so much surrounding not just the mechanics and logistics of building the structure – but also some of the interpersonal happenings at the time for Frank Lloyd Wright and the owners (the Kauffman family). He also pointed out the best spot for a photo opp.  What do you think? 

On the tour, you walk around the home, as well as through each room.  It is decorated with appropriate period furnishings (also designed by Wright), and your guide will point out where anything was changed from his original design. It is stunning to witness Wright’s commitment to integrating the house with its environs in nature.  There are windows everywhere - but the frames are hidden within the stone, so they appear natural. There are large balconies throughout the home too.  There are boulders coming up through the living room, and natural stone used in the fireplace. But the piece de resistance for me was the stairway from the living room down to the stream below.  The home is in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape. The cantilevered shape of the house reflects the craggy topography and waterfall.  Even when you are in the home, you feel like you are outside.  You can hear it, feel it and see it all around you. It truly is a wonder of architecture – and one you are loath to leave.  You just want to soak it all in.  Luckily, after you finish the tour, you can hike around the surrounding area and take lots of spectacular pictures. 

What some may not realize is that Frank Lloyd Wright also designed another home nearby, Kentuck Knob.  Kentuck Knob is not as well-known as Falling Water, but it possesses its own magical beauty. It too is a National Historic Landmark. Kentuck Knob is a different style than Falling Water, but it’s still at one with nature as it was nestled directly into the hillside, blending into the contours of the land. We ended up spending much more time here as the property was so gorgeous.  It has grand, sweeping views of the Youghiogheny River Gorge and its surrounding hills and farms.  It was a beautiful day, so we camped out on the hillside for what felt like hours just committing it to our memory banks. It was relaxing and restorative… which is probably just what Wright intended.  On our way out we were pleasantly surprised to find that the current owners had created a diverse sculpture garden/walk that was a delight to walk through and interact with.  We especially enjoyed Ray Smith’s Red Army.

Even though this was just a day trip for us, I love opportunities like this that highlight how many amazing experiences are all around us.  This one has stuck with me for so many reasons. It’s unique and memorable for sure, but also quiet and peaceful and allowed me to appreciate the beautiful simplicity of the Pennsylvania hills. I love to travel on extended vacations, but I also love to discover new things that make me treasure my home base even more.

Maine Attraction

In quiet moments of reflection, Maine is the place where my mind tends to wander off to. As I mentioned in my last post, I am lucky enough to visit coastal Maine each summer – but the memories of that beautiful place stay with me throughout the year. There is no place I’ve been that rejuvenates me like the mid-coast of Maine does. 

We stay in a small place in Port Clyde, ME. It’s cozy and rustic – and just steps away from the mighty Atlantic Ocean. While most of our vacations center around doing stuff and seeing things, in Maine, it’s different.  Our daily goal is to spend as much time beside that beautiful body of water as we can.  My husband fishes for pollack, striped bass, and mackerel and paints still lifes, while I dive into as many books as I can.  This is truly a vacation of leisure and revitalization.  It’s a slower pace of life, and there is no cell service, no TV, no connection to the outside world – and it’s wonderful.   We focus instead on appreciating each other and mother nature. I relish the calm and the solitude.  Our excitement instead comes from possible sightings from our porch of seals, porpoise, or osprey. In the evenings it’s seeing an inky dark sky filled full with a galaxy full of bright stars, including the Milky Way. I never knew there were so many stars in the sky. During the day we are accompanied by the soothing repetitive sounds of the waves crashing on the rocks and the lobstermen hauling their traps right outside our door. There is no more calming sound to fall asleep to than waves crashing just feet from your bed.

Can't you just hear it now?

Mother-in-law enjoying the serenity of this view

Hauling traps on a lobster boat

Seals basking in the sunlight

 

Fishing near Marshall Point Lighthouse

When we do step off the property, it’s usually to eat – and mostly that sweet and fantastically delicious Maine lobster. I once had a family member challenge me to eat it every day -- and I won that bet. It is so unbelievably fresh – and so much more affordable too. So, I have kept up the tradition of eating lobster with at least one meal every day.  Our favorite way to get our daily fill is a Red’s Eats lobster roll.  It’s the BEST!  The lines are sure to be long, but worth every buttery bite. And they are super friendly to our dogs too. Another favorite is Miller’s Lobster Company in Spruce Head.  The lobster is fresh and delicious, and you can’t beat the view from the picnic tables on their pier. I could go on and on about my love of lobster and how many ways I can eat it – but they have other culinary delights too.  There is an amazing German restaurant in Tenant’s Harbor, The Happy Clam.  We go there at least once each trip. Then there is the famous seven napkin burger at the Owl’s Head General Store – some straight up sloppy goodness! And Rockland has James Beard award-winning, Primo, an upscale farm to table dining experience. So… a little bit of something for everyone. 

Ocean kayaking near Port Clyde

When we are out and about on the peninsula and surrounding areas, we love to visit the many, many antique stores and art galleries.  They just might have more of both of these establishments than year-round residents.  If this is a passion of yours, mid-coast Maine is the destination for you. We also ensure we get our daily dose of ice cream, usually in the village of Port Clyde or sometimes at Dorman’s in Rockland. And of course, there are always the lighthouses!  Maine has dozens of iconic lighthouses scattered along its 5,000 miles of coastline.  They are picturesque and peaceful, and we often enjoy spending a couple of hours sitting by their side, just enjoying the scenic beauty. We are lucky to have the idyllic Marshall Point lighthouse just a short walk away. It’s a relaxing place to bring in the dusk – until the mosquitos chase you away. 

Marshall Point Lighthouse

Niece and brother-in-law exploring the rocks near MP Lighthouse

I often say that Maine speaks to my soul.  I feel so at one with nature and myself.  There are few distractions and many opportunities to truly enjoy the best things that life has to offer in its greatest simplicity – beautiful vistas, wildlife, delicious cuisine, great company, elusive leisure time, and peaceful solitude and reflection.  When we have to pack up and leave to return to the real world, I feel torn. I miss my life back home, but I often wonder… why can’t this be my life?  Maybe someday it will. In the meantime, each day at work I gaze at the unforgettable ocean view I can see from the porch of our Maine cottage, or at least the image of it on my desktop background… 

Ahhhhh ...